Every time I come to blog, I'm amazed how long it has been since last time. I'm usually prompted by the big 'food events' of the year - on this occasion the arrival of apricots and summer fruits in the shops. I have been making my own jam in France for many years now - even before we were here full time.
Having a larger kitchen and now a better work surface at a good height is probably part of the reason. Jam making requires some space for preparation and does require attention to cleanliness, good order and a neat working space. This is maybe why I enjoy it. Concentration is key. Plan your campaign in advance. You can work in a small kitchen (my Mum's kitchen was a tiny galley) but will need to organise your space. Because I am supposed to be 'taking things easy' at the moment, I don't want to be in a flustered panic, so I am careful to think out every stage of even the simplest process so I have everything on hand, ready for use.
If you are going to macerate your apricots (and I recommend it to prevent total mush and improve the flavour) start prepping the night before you want to make your jam. Macerating improves the texture of the fruit and melts the sugar crystals, making boiling less stressful. You MUST get the sugar melted by the time boiling starts, or you risk having sugar crystals in your jam. Don't wash your apricots - your jam doesn't need all that water. If necessary, wipe them with a damp cloth.
Prepare your jars (at least two more than you think you'll need). Wash
them thoroughly and sterilise them and their lids. I use a big pan and
boiling water. Stand your jars in the pan, fill with cold water until completely covered, with the lids around the edge. Bring to the boil and
simmer for 15 minutes. Once sterile they can be laid out on a clean tea
towel until needed. Personally I don't take them out until just before
use (the hot water will quickly evaporate off). You can equally sterilise in a hot oven. just set your jars &
lids on a baking tray (not touching each other) at 180c for about 15
mins. You want to ladle hot jam into hot jars, so timing is important.
Clean and lay out your equipment. Nothing special is needed - but you will need a ladle, something like tongs to pick up your jars & lids when hot, and a jam funnel for filling the jars unless you are very neat handed and use a jug. I recommend getting at least a stainless steel ladle and a jam funnel because they are useful for other things and are relatively cheap.
Clean and prepare your cooking pan. If you have a stainless steel pan, this is as simple as washing it up. I use a copper pan, so wash it thoroughly and then clean inside and out with half a lemon and some ordinary salt. If you are using copper there must be no tarnish remaining and certainly no green patches. The advantage of copper is you can cook at a slightly lower temperature, with less risk of burning the jam.
Ingredients
2kg Apricots, stoned. Weigh them after stoning - you should have about 1.85kg. Some people cut their fruit into halves, I cut into quarters for a slightly less chunky finish.
Sugar, equal in weight to your prepared fruit
A lemon (I used half a lemon this year because mine were massive Spanish ones)
A knob of butter
This recipe can be halved. Some people don't recommend cooking more than
1kg jam because of the danger of the jam boiling over. In my big copper
pot this is fine - but be aware that I use a pot which is about 35cm
across and 24cm deep. So if your pot is smaller, maybe start small!
Put your stoned and chopped fruit into a large mixing bowl. Add the
required amount of sugar and mix thoroughly. Cover with a clean tea
towel and leave for 12 - 24 hours. The sugar will melt and your apricots
will darken in colour slightly. Stir thoroughly from time to time, especially before pouring into your cooking pan.
On cooking day, lay out your equipment and begin sterilising your jars. Stir the fruit well, and pour it into the pan. Squeeze the juice of the lemon into the pan, then add the squeezed lemon carcass. This provides pectin to set the jam. Heat the pan slowly, stirring from time to time whilst the sugar finishes melting, until the jam begins to boil. At this point I add a knob of butter. This dissolves any scum that forms on top. Some people skim their jam. I don't. Stir your jam whilst it is boiling to ensure nothing is catching on the bottom. It isn't a disaster if you get a bit of 'caramel' (aka 'burnt bits') in your jam, but it might spoil the appearance.
I boiled mine for ten minutes initially, then a few minutes more until I was happy with the set. After the initial boil, take your cold saucer and drop a teaspoonful of jam onto it. Give the blob a push with a spoon and if it wrinkles nicely it is done. If not (or if a channel pushed through the blob immediately floods) carry on boiling for another 2 minutes and try again. Once you are happy that your jam has set, you can pot it up.
Ladle the jam into hot jars. Using a tea towel, screw down the lids immediately. As the jam cools, the 'popper' at the centre of most modern jars will pop down, sealing the jar securely. Allow the jars to cool, and then store in a cool, dark place until needed.
This week I will hope to buy 2kg of strawberries for strawberry jam. The same process, but less sugar (750g per kilo). Again I will use a lemon rather than preserving sugar. I may also add a dried vanilla pod (I keep them in the sugar jar) for added flavour.
